Experiencing the wooden train from Palma to Sóller is probably one of the most popular day trips from the capital of the Balearics. And no wonder, it’s quite the unique experience that you are unlikely to have anywhere else, anytime soon.
During my first trip to Mallorca, as I based myself in the North of the island, I didn’t get the chance to do this trip. However, the next time it was the first thing on the list of things I wanted to do in Mallorca. Even though it is a touristy attraction, I did enjoy it and I would highly recommend it.
The Wooden Train from Palma to Sóller
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The beginning of the 20th century found the town of Sóller prospering due to their growing orange production. However, as the town was isolated in the mountains, it was very hard for the locals to take their goods to the port of Palma. In order to reach the capital, locals must cross a dangerous pass over the mountains, which is used mostly by draft animals. With the development of the railway in other parts of the island, a local politician from Sóller proposed a project that would connect the town to Palma by rail, but the plan failed because of the high costs. It wasn’t until 1903 when another industrialist, supported by the same politician, proposed a feasible plan which was approved and supported by the town’s residents. The owners of the company were the residents of Sóller themselves, who had the opportunity to purchase shares in the business.
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The vintage wooden train that carries tourists every day from Palma to Sóller, had its first journey on September 30th 1911. The line was opened to the public on April 16th 1912.
On October 4th 1913 the tram line between Sóller and Port de Sóller was finished as well, opening up the trade of oranges, olives and fish between the two towns. Nicknamed the “Red Lightning”, the electric tram passes through fragrant orange orchards on its way to the harbour. The carriages numbered 1,2,3, 5 and 6 are the original ones from 1913.
Travelling on the vintage train from Palma so Sóller is like taking a trip back in time, because except for the steam locomotive and the main traction engine, everything else is the same as it was at the beginning of the century. The carriages are very well maintained and have the same leather chairs, reversible backrests, and wooden windows. The train runs on a narrow-gauge track with a width of only 914mm.
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After the train leaves Palma and passes through the suburbs, it starts climbing higher and higher through the Sierra de Alfàbia mountain range. It passes through beautiful orange and olive groves and pine tree forests, before emerging into 13 different tunnels. The line crosses high bridges and stops at Mirador del Pujol d’en Banya, where you can admire the gorgeous panorama of Sóller from above. The journey from Palma to Sóller covers 27 kilometres and takes one hour.
The Timetable and How to Buy Tickets
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A perfect trip so Sóller will require some planning, as the train only runs at certain hours. Click here for the timetable.
As I was in Mallorca during the low season, when I went to Sóller, there were only two trains a day: leaving Palma at 10:30am and 5:30pm and returning from Sóller at 9:00am and 4:30pm. During summer there are up to six trains a day, but you still need to plan ahead in order to have a smooth trip.
I visited Sóller at the end of November, and there were still plenty of people on the train. The price of a round trip to Sóller, which includes the vintage tram to Port de Sóller, costs 32 euros. Yes, it’s very expensive, but in my opinion, the experience is worth it.
Unfortunately, you can’t buy tickets in advance at the moment, which can be quite stressful during the high season. You must be at the station around one hour before the train leaves in order to be able to get a seat on the train at your desired departure time.
Keep in mind that you can only buy the ticket with cash, and that cards are not accepted. There are two banks across the street from where you can get some cash, but they both charge a fee.
The Logistics
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There are plenty of tours you can take from Palma that will try and cram in a lot of activities in a short period of time. However, I prefer a more leisurely approach, so I planned my own day trip to Sóller, taking my time to explore and take photos.
In order to explore Sóller and Port de Sóller at your own pace, I would advise to get the first train of the day and return on the last one. Once you reach Sóller, head directly to Port de Sóller on the vintage electric tram. Visit the port town first and leave Sóller for later, so that you can easily coordinate with the train back to Palma. If you miss the last train though, you can still return, but on the bus.
If you don’t have much time thought and do want to join a tour, here are some highly rated suggestions:
Sóller or Port de Sóller?
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If you are visiting Mallorca for the first time, you might be confused about Sóller and Port de Sóller, and wonder which one to visit. The answer is simple: both! Sóller is a beautiful mountain town surrounded by tall peaks and orange orchards. It has narrow streets and offers photo opportunities on every corner. On the other hand, Port de Sóller is a more vibrant beach resort, with seafront restaurants and bars, luxurious yachts and a pretty lighthouse.
Things to Do in Sóller
Wander Around the Town
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The main square in Sóller is a beautiful example of modernist architecture, which was introduced to the island at the beginning of the 20th century. As you stand in front of the cathedral, facing out, look left and you will see the building of the Bank of Sóller , with its beautiful, sculpted façade, and a double balcony with very detailed ironwork. The architect, Joan Rubio I Bellver, created it as a commemoration to Gaudi, whose disciple he was.
Visit the Cathedral
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The Església de Sant Bartomeu is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Mallorca, due to its fascinating façade and numerous architectural styles it was built and re-decorated in, since the 13th century when the first chapel was built.
The façade of the church was designed by Joan Rubio I Bellver, who used local grey limestone to bring the artworks on it to life.
The fee to enter the cathedral is only 1 euro.
Check Out the Can Prunera Museum
Can Prunera is an Art Nouveau and Catalan Modernisme townhouse in Sóller. It is not known who the architect was, but it is believed that it may have been the same Joan Rubio I Bellver, who designed so many other buildings in town.
The museum hosts a collection of works by artists of the 19th and 20th century, but also painters who were either born in Mallorca or have links to the island.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to visit this museum as it was closed due to the pandemic. It still is on the date this article is published.
Have Some Hot Chocolate
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In November, there can be quite a bit of rain in Mallorca. Whilst the morning treated me with glorious sunshine, as soon as I arrived back in Sóller, the heavens opened. I tried to continue sightseeing, but I got drenched quickly so I found shelter in a nice coffee shop, and enjoyed a cup of thick, hot chocolate, and a delicious ensaimada.
There is always a reason to have ensaimada, one of the traditional culinary delights of Mallorca, so stop at one of the numerous bakeries in Sóller for a nice break. By the side of the tracks are some cute coffee shops with terraces, which are lovely to sit at when it’s not raining.
Things to do in Port de Sóller
There are a few things to do in Port de Sóller, depending on how much time you have. As the town has a large marina, you can take day trips from here to Sa Calobra, which has one of the most secluded gorgeous beaches I have seen in Mallorca. There are also a few hiking routes, that take a couple of hours to complete.
If you are in town for only a few hours, consider strolling along the narrow streets, and enjoy a fresh fish lunch at one of the restaurants along the harbour.
Have Lunch by the Sea Front
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Being a fishing town, having fish or seafood for lunch is a must.
There are many seafront restaurants and cafes that offer lunch with a view. On a sunny day, its lovely to sit by the sea and enjoy some good food with a view. And a tinto de verano, of course, because after all, you are on holiday.
Check Out the Viewpoints
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Don’t spend all your time near the beach or the harbour. When you see some steep stairs going up, climb them, it will be well worth it. The view from Plaça de Santa Catarina is so beautiful! On one side there is a pretty panorama of the town, whilst on the other side is the infinite sea.
I stumbled upon this place by accident, whilst wandering around to find all the hidden corners of the town.
Relax by the Beach
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Port de Sóller has two beautiful sandy beaches, one at each end of the town. During the summer season you can rent a beach lounger and a parasol, and on the Platja des Traves pedal boats as well.
The beaches are quite narrow, with warm water. The bay is sheltered, so the sea is calm even in windy weather.
For more similar articles, check out my recommendations below:
- How to spend one day in Palma de Mallorca
- Mallorca in winter travel guide
- Unique things to do in Mallorca
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This looks like such a fun experience + the scenery is so beautiful! Unfortunate that you can’t get a ticket in advance right now (that can definitely be stressful), but definitely good to know that you can still get back by bus if you miss the last train!
Absolutely loved learning more about this train. Must have been such a special experience. Thank you for sharing.