When I think of my recent trip to Georgia, it’s not the historic sites or the breathtaking landscapes that first come to mind. It’s rather the legendary hospitality of the people who made my time in Georgia so special, with supra being one of the most welcoming traditions. Supra is such a deep part of the Georgian culture that in 2017, it was included on Unesco’s international cultural heritage list.
If I were to describe what the Georgian supra is in only two words, I would say that it is a celebration of life. Little did I know when I boarded the flight to Tbilisi that my initiation to the Georgian culture would begin with a supra, the same day.
I landed in Tbilisi at 5 in the morning, after a long flight with a layover, from London. I managed to sleep for two hours before embarking on a wine adventure around the picturesque Kakheti region of the country. After sampling Mtsvane, Saperavi, and Rkatsiteli all day, I found myself at Bacho’s house, sitting at the dinner table with his entire family. Bacho is a small producer who makes bio wines using the traditional Georgian qvevri method, in a village one hour away from Tbilisi. He speaks so passionately about his wines, which all have family inspired related names and labels.
Whilst Maia, his mom, was making us delicious gozinaki, mixing vigorously walnuts with honey in a pot on the stove, his dad, Zaza, was tending to the pork barbecue, grilling over a fire made from dried vines. “It makes the meat taste so much better”, Vazha, our guide told us. Once we sat down at the festive table set in the living room, the feast began with a toast from Bacho, welcoming us into his home. We spent the next hours around the table, treated like members of the family and not just guests, being fed until we couldn’t eat any more, with our glasses being filled until we couldn’t drink any more. What a warm welcome to Georgia!
Over the next couple of weeks, I was welcomed with even more supras, some of which would happen spontaneously. After a while, it felt normal for a light lunch or a cooking class to transform into a supra, with toasts and copious amounts of food and wine. Because let’s face it, there is no such thing as a light lunch in Georgia!
What is the Georgian Supra?
At first glance, the Georgian supra might look like a feast, with traditional dishes that don’t stop coming from the kitchen, and plenty of wine flowing. But supra is so much more than this: it is a bridge that connects people, a share of cultures, a celebration of gratefulness and a warm welcome ceremony. The origins of the supra date back to ancient times, being mentioned in early literature and documented travel accounts. The legend says that when God created the world and appointed the areas of the world to different nations, the Georgians were late due to celebrating a supra. When they finally arrived, there was no land left for them. However, as they explained to God that they were toasting to him, he was touched and gave them the most precious piece of land, the one he was keeping for himself.
The current representation of the supra however is much newer, dating from the 19th century. This is when the concept of tamada – the toastmaster – seems to have been introduced.
Supra is always led by a tamada, who will make sure that everyone is having a great time, and engaging, and who will introduce the toasts at key moments during the meal.
When it comes to food, the supra is indeed a feast. As I sat down at every supra, the table was already filled with cold appetisers such as fresh bread, vegetable pates (pkhali), aubergines stuffed with walnut paste, fried chicken accompanied by cold walnut sauce, a selection of Georgian cheeses, different dips and salads, and many others. During the 2-3-4 hours of the supra, more and more dishes arrive at the table: khachapuri, khinkali, chicken in garlic sauce, baked trout, beans stew, sauteed mushrooms, cheesy mashed potatoes, Georgian sausages, and the list goes on and on. The wine is always flowing and the glasses never get the chance to empty.
There are always occasions to host a supra: to welcome guests, to celebrate special events in life, to commemorate the memory of a loved one, for reunions, harvests, or for any other moment that it’s worth celebrating.
The Tamada
At all the supras I attended in Georgia, the tamada has been the host. On some occasions, other members of our groups were invited to raise a glass and hold a toast, whilst at other times it was only the tamada who performed this ritual.
The tamada is always a person with great communication skills, who can engage all the other participants around the table, and move them with his words. Most of the time, the role of the tamada sits with a man rather than a woman. The first toast of the meal is always a welcome to the guests. When the tamada is making a toast, it is respectful to raise your glass and listen to what is being said. You only drink after the toast has been made. During a supra there are a lot of toasts made, starting with the guests, the family hosting, the food on the table, the memory of our loved ones, Georgia, peace in the world, having faith, and being grateful for different things. The toasts are usually customised to the occasion of the supra. Sometimes you drink the entire glass of wine in one go, sometimes you just sip. Sometimes, the tamada will drink directly from the horn of a bull, and invite someone from the table to join him.
The size of the horns varies significantly. I have seen small horns, which only have the capacity for a glass of wine, but I’ve also seen giant horns that can fill an entire bottle of wine inside. When you toast with a horn you have to drink the entire liquid in one go, and then turn it upside down, to show that you’ve finished. No liquid must drop from the horn.
Towards the second part of the supra, the tamada will start singing and will engage its guests to accompany him. Sometimes there are dances involved as well. I will never forget dancing with Darejan, Bacha’s grandmother, at the end of his supra.
How to Join a Georgian Supra?
Joining a Georgian supra is easier than you might think. Whilst you probably won’t be randomly invited to a local’s house in Tbilisi, if you visit the rural villages, that is not out of the question.
One of the most vibrant Georgian supras I joined was at Bacho’s house, in the small village of Sagarejo. It was the highlight of a fantastic wine day tour in and around Sighnaghi, as well as the perfect welcome to Georgia. At the end of the night, after plenty of food, wine, and ad hoc singing, Bacha’s father, Zaza, started playing the piano. Darejan, his grandmother, invited us all to join her dancing, in their homely living room. You can click here to book the same tour and enjoy this incredible welcoming supra. You can also get 5% off if you use the code “pocket5”.
Another supra that stays close to my heart was held at Azarphesha Restaurant, in Tbilisi. Besides the fantastic food and the wine sourced from small, independent qvevri producers, I had the pleasure of meeting Luarsab, the owner. His heartwarming speeches during the supra touched everyone in the room. Together with his business partner, Grantsa, they introduced us to the Georgian folk through music and their warm voices. Click here to enquire.
For a unique supra, consider joining the evening entertainment at the Ethnographer in Tbilisi. This restaurant is unique – large enough to host hundreds of people, in a space decorated like a wine cellar, with long, wooden tables, chandeliers hanging from the ceilings covered with vines, and walls decorated with traditional Georgian memorabilia. The supra here is accompanied by traditional Georgian dances and live singers. Click here to book a table.
If you find yourself in Mestia, consider joining a traditional cooking class at Guest House Lali, which for us ended up with a supra. We’ve learned how to make traditional Svanetian Khachapuri, kubdari – meat pie, and tashmijabi – mashed potatoes with a lot of cheese. The supra involved a lot of food, wine, and homemade brandy with walnuts and local edible flowers. Lali, the owner of the guesthouse, showed us how to make Svanetian salt, an ingredient which is not missing from any of the local delicacies. Click here to enquire.
Final Thoughts
I didn’t know anything about the Georgian supra before I visited the country. And I wrote this article because I don’t want you, my reader, to miss such a unique celebration of culture and life, on your trip to Georgia. Supra is the warmest welcome and introduction to Sakartvelo – The Country of Georgians.
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I wish to experience a Georgian Supra too! You’ve painted a clear picture of what it’s like, from the friendly welcome to the delicious food and drinks. The tamada sounds like an important part of the tradition, and your tips for joining a supra are helpful for anyone wanting to experience it themselves. Your stories about attending supras, like the one at Bacho’s house, show how much fun and warmth there is in these gatherings. Thank you for sharing.